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Site Admin

Joined: 04 Dec 2003
Posts: 16
Location: Bishop, CA

PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2004 5:13 pm    Post subject: Tattoo Wall - New cliff at Bubba, NRG Reply with quote

Eric Horst has developed a new wall at Bubba City, New River Gorge, WV. It has 25 new routes (all sport routes) ranging from 5.6 to 5.13. Most of the routes fall in the 5.6 to 5.11 range. The center of the wall is 95 feet tall so you need a 60m rope. There are even two 95 ft 5.8 routes. Eric has pictures and a new topo on his website:
I haven't visited the cliff (obviously, since I live in CA) but the photos on his website look good. Hopefully Busdriver will give us a full report on the quality of the rock and the routes. Regardless, thanks to Eric for his continued work developing and maintaining Bubba City. Buy his guidebook and help him make the NRG even better.
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The Dominican

Joined: 25 Jan 2004
Posts: 23

PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2004 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wanted to drop some additional information on the tattoo wall that may be of some help to those in search of high quality easy to moderate routes relatively untouched.
1.) ACCESS- MAKE SURE YOU PARK YOUR VEHICLE AS CLOSE TO ROAD AS POSSIBLE.(all wheel drive vehicles excluded) There are a series chicanes in the second pullout that fill up after a good rain (1-2 feet). basically, if you see water....stop your car. vehicles the have all wheel drive may be albe to"scoot" around.
2.) the " superior " trail as noted the addendum is not so superior. It's more like "fair". If your rolling up to the new after or during a rain session, tattoo may not be your first choice. The trail follows a logging road (flat),veeres off to the left (marked by surveyor tape), crosses a power line, and finally ends upon a muddy (hopefully seasonal) gully descent to the tattoo wall with shitload of unnecessary cheaterstones that would probably help the trail more than the directions of the trail since the trees are marked with sureveyors tape all the way down. 20min. ETA car to crag.
IF YOU DO NOT HAVE AN ADDENDUM, DO NOT BOTHER GOING TO TATTOO. the bolting on these routes of spendor are tight, so it can be very difficult to see what route you are looking for because of the height of the rock alone. A few of the routes actually share the same start, so make sure you have the route of your choice on lockdown.
the first 5 routes have alot of tiered blocky jugs for 75-80 feet and appear to seep rainwater (obviously after rain sesh.)MAKE SURE YOU HAVE QUICKDRAWS! ALOT OF QUICKDRAWS! The routes are long and average around 8-10 draws excluding anchors. If you dont have any draws or not that many, then you talk to Scott/Chris/Dave at the gym (we'll sell you some ). Unexpectedly, the wall gets some sun. There is some substancial shade though...

I did not have a an opportunity to expore the tattoo wall as much as I would have liked due to an unexpected appointment mother nature made(Lightning)....but I hope to be able provide more beta on the routes as the season develops. pictures will be posted on the gym board.

giesha girl (5.icon_cool.gif - a good route to act a fool on, because its that much fun and rewarding with an excellent view if the new and the bridge. 10 bolts icon_surprised.gif

Be Cool. Don't Spray.
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